Hoyt 2021 Altus Compound Bow

Hoyt Archery introduced the Altus compound bow as part of its target lineup for 2021.

In this video, Lancaster Archery Supply’s P.J. Reilly runs through the specs and features of this 38-inch-long bow that’s going to be a great choice for all forms of target archery.

The Altus is available with two different cams – the DCX and SVX. The DCX version will be a little smoother to draw and hold, as compared to the SVX, which is built more for speed.

The most noticeable feature of the Altus to Hoyt target fans is the fact that it does not have a shoot-through riser. Dual bridges in the riser produce the bow’s rigidity, versus the shoot-through construction.

Hoyt is marketing the Altus as “another price option” in its target lineup because it’s not the most expensive, nor is it the least expensive bow.

Watch now to learn all about this new target bow from Hoyt.

2021 Mathews TRX 38 G2 and TRX 34

For 2021, Mathews introduced the TRX 38G2 and TRX 34 compound bows to its target lineup. In this video, Lancaster Archery Supply’s P.J. Reilly runs through the specs and features of both bows.

The TRX 34 is going to be an excellent choice for either bowhunters or for target archers – especially target archers with a shorter draw length.

The TRX 38 G2 is an updated version of the TRX 38, to include the CX-3 cam and new riser geometry. This is going to be a great choice for 3D, indoor and outdoor target archery.

Elite 2021 Enkore and Remedy Compound Bows

The 2021 flagship hunting bows from Elite Archery are the Enkore and the Remedy. In this video, Lancaster Archery Supply’s P.J. Reilly runs down the specs and features of these two great new compound bows.

The Enkore is a 33-inch long bow with a 6-inch brace height that’s got an IBO speed rating of 340 feet per second, ad a draw length range of 23-30 inches. This is going to be the speed bow for bowhunters who like flat arrow trajectories.

The Remedy measures 34 inches long, has about a 6.5-inch brace height and an IBO speed rating of 331 feet per second and a draw length range of 24-31 inches.. This bow has a smooth draw cycle that will be comfortable to hold at full draw while standing in the tree stand.

Both bows feature Elite’s SET technology, which allows for simple tuning without the need for bow press. They’ve also got Elite’s tri-track cam system, which houses cables in separate tracks on either side of the bowstring for cam stability.

Scope Size: What’s right for me?

A quick look through Lancaster Archery Supply’s lineup of 3-D and target scope offerings for compound bows shows scopes measuring 29, 30, 35, 39 and 41 mm, among some other sizes.

Recognizing there are different sizes of scope housings available begs the obvious question, “Which size is right for me?”

And the answer is, “That depends on what you want to see.”

Scopes and lenses are married to provide a certain view of the target. Some archers like to really zero in on the arrow’s exact point of impact, while others prefer a more distant view, so they can relax while aiming.

The smaller the scope housing, the smaller your field of view. That field shrinks even further the more you magnify it with a lens.

So let’s say you are shooting at a typical Vegas 3-spot target face for an 18-meter, indoor shoot. A small scope housing will enable you to really focus on each individual spot, while minimizing your view of everything surrounding each spot.

X-Spot 29mm scope

Some archers find it distracting to see much surrounding the intended aiming point. So maybe you start with a 29mm scope housing and then choose a magnifying lens that blows up the target enough to all but completely fill your view of it through the scope when you’re at full draw.

On the other hand, some archers feel “claustrophobic” when they can’t see anything but the target face in their scope. They like a little extra room around the bull’s-eye, which allows them to settle down and hold the bow steadier. So maybe a 35mm scope is a better choice for that archer.

Bowfinger 20/20 35mm scope

Moving outdoors, you’ll have to address the same issues for field archery, 50-meter rounds and other bull’s-eye target rounds. How much area around the target do you want to see? Find a scope and magnifying lens to create that view.

For 3-D, the larger scopes dominate because most archers want to see the whole target in the scope. And those targets might range from a tiny skunk to a life-size bull elk. Being able to see the whole target allows you to find reference spots to aim when scoring rings are not readily visible. Also, for those archers who shoot unknown distance, seeing the whole target allows them to better judge the distance to it. As a result, many archers choose the 40- and 41-mm scopes for their 3-D setups.

Shrewd Nomad 42mm scope

Lighting is another factor to consider for an outdoor scope. The smaller the scope, the less light will get through it to your eye. In an open field, that’s probably not a problem. But if you’re going to be shooting in the woods with a dense canopy, then going with a bigger scope to allow more light in might be the best choice.

What is F.O.C.? And how does it affect my arrows?

F.O.C. is a hot topic in arrow-building discussions today.

What is F.O.C.?

It’s the acronym for “front of center.” What it refers to is the percentage of an arrow’s total weight – including the point – that is concentrated forward of the center of the arrow.

F.O.C. is something that mainly bowhunters are concerned with, and there’s no question that having a solid F.O.C. number is key to getting good arrow penetration on a big game animal.

But some bowhunters think F.O.C. is the only factor they should be concerned with in preparing hunting arrows, and they don’t understand the consequences of simply beefing up the front end of their arrows.

Let’s start with a minimum. Easton Archery recommends arrows have a minimum F.O.C. of 10-15 percent. That’s going to allow an arrow to fly accurately, especially at longer distances. If you go less than 10 percent, the arrow’s trajectory will be flatter, but its flight will be more erratic.

That 10-15 percent is what Easton recommends for target arrows and for hunting arrows. The amount of weight needed up front to hit that range will be sufficient for hunting, according to Easton.

A lot of bowhunters today try to get their F.O.C. to 20 percent and even a little higher. They can do that by adding weight to their inserts. A standard aluminum insert might weigh about 16 grains, where there are brass inserts that can weigh 100 grains. Also, some insert manufacturers allow weights to be screwed into the backs of their inserts, which is another way to add weight to the inserts.

Gold Tip 100-grain brass insert

Bowhunters also can add weight by shooting heavier broadheads. A standard broadhead weighs 100 grains. But there are common options for 125 and 150 grains. And there are special broadheads aimed primarily at the heavy F.O.C. fans that weigh 200 grains.

Strickland’s Archery 200-grain broadhead

So if a bowhunter swaps out that 16-grain aluminum insert for a 100-grain brass insert, and trades a 100-grain broadhead for a 150-grain model, that hunter just increased the front-end weight of that arrow by 134 grains. That’s sure to boost the arrow’s F.O.C. considerably.

No question that arrow now will have improved penetration capabilities. But it also could cause problems for the bowhunter.

For starters, with all that weight added to the front of the arrow, the arrow’s spine is considerably weakened, and accuracy problems are likely. According to Easton’s hunting arrow shaft selection chart, an archer shooting a 29-inch arrow from a 62-pound bow should choose an arrow with a 340 spine while using a 100-grain broadhead. If the archer only increases point weight by 50 grains, that archer should be shooting a 300-spine arrow. The more weight you add to the front of an arrow, the stiffer that arrow needs to be to support that extra weight.

A second issue could be trajectory. When you add weight to an arrow, you slow it down, which adds more curve to its trajectory arc. For the Eastern tree stand hunter who expects most shots to be under 20 yards, that’s probably not an issue. But it could be for the Western hunter who is spotting and stalking and might have to shoot out to 60 yards. With that much weight added, a 2-yard miscalculation in shooting distance could easily result in a miss.

No question there are benefits to boosting an arrow’s F.O.C. to increase its capability of punching through an animal. Some animal hides are notoriously tough, and if the arrow hits a bone, it would be nice if the arrow could punch through that bone.

But as with many things in archery, balance is important. Kinetic energy is the amount of energy a body has in motion. It’s calculated by a formula that relies on the weight and speed of a moving object.

To calculate KE in foot pounds you would take the arrow weight and multiple it by the velocity squared, and divide that number by 450,800. For hunting game animals like antelope and deer, Easton recommends an arrow have KE values of 25-41 foot pounds. For elk, black bear and boar, Easton recommends 42-65 foot pounds.

To illustrate what an arrow build would be to meet those minimums, let’s look at the popular Easton Axis 5mm. A 29-inch, 340-spine arrow weighing 9.5 grains per inch, with a standard insert and fletchings would weigh about 315 grains. Add a 100-grain point and you get a 415-grain arrow. Shoot that arrow from a 70-pound bow drawn to 29 inches, and a speed of about 290 feet-per-second is likely.

The KE value for that arrow is 77 foot pounds. That’s well above Easton’s recommendation for any of those animals. So it’s safe to say that arrow is sufficient for bowhunting all of them.

The F.O.C. for that arrow is 12 percent, which is also within Easton’s recommended range. If I add a bunch of weight to the front of that arrow to try to get to 20 percent F.O.C., I am increasing the penetration capability of an arrow that already is capable to killing a deer, elk or black bear.

That’s not necessarily a bad thing. But remember to consider arrow spine and performance, along with your hunting expectations as you are building arrows with an eye toward boosting F.O.C.

A simple, inexpensive way to test arrow performance with different F.O.C. values is to get screw-in field points of varying weights. Saunders makes field points as heavy as 250 grains. Shoot several arrows with points of different weights at whatever you consider to be your maximum effective range. By doing this, you should be able to determine what gives you the tightest, most consistent groups.

Saunders 250-grain field point

Don’t just look for the tightest groups. You also want to consider forgiveness. That is, which arrows hit closest to your aiming point when you make a bad shot. If you have an arrow setup that produces 2-inch groups at 50 yards, but a slight bobble on your part throws the arrow off 8 inches, versus an arrow setup that produces 4-inch groups, with imperfect shots only missing by 3 inches, you should consider going with the latter setup.

Buying Guide to Fletching Jigs

The fletching jig is one of the best tools an archer can own for do-it-yourself arrow building and repair. Whether you shoot recurve, compound or crossbow, with arrows steered by feathers or plastic fletchings, there’s a fletching jig for you.

But they don’t all do the same things. And if you like lots of variety with your fletchings, it’s important you find the jig that can do what you want.

Bitzenburger fletching jig

Here are the factors you’ll want to consider when you are buying your fletching jig.

FLETCHING TYPE

Fletchings are either plastic vanes or real or synthetic feathers. Some fletching jigs can handle both types. Some can only handle one or the other. Make sure the jig you want can handle the fletchings you plan to use.

The Last Chance Archery Vane Master Pro is designed for use primarily with plastic vanes

For the tape-on, curly vanes commonly used by Olympic recurve archers, there are a few special jigs designed just for these vanes. More commonly, archers use a fletching tool – such as the Beiter Tri Liner – which allows them to mark their shafts with a pen to evenly space the fletchings, which are then applied by hand.

Beiter Tri Liner

FLETCHING LENGTHS

There are a wide variety of fletching lengths, ranging from just over one inch to just under six inches. Most fletchings will be in the two- to four-inch range, and so basically all fletching jigs will be capable of handling fletchings of those sizes. But if you plan to use the longest or shortest fletchings, you will need to make sure the jig you want can handle those.

FLETCHING POSITION

With some jigs, the distance from the nock to the fletching is fixed and cannot be changed. But maybe you want to experiment with moving that fletching either closer to or farther away from the nock to combat issues like face-fletching contact. Or maybe you like your target-arrow fletchings closer to the nock than your hunting-arrow fletchings.

If you want to be able to change the distance between the nock and the fletching, you will need a jig that allows for such adjustments.

SHAFT SIZE

Arrow shafts run from outside diameters of .176-.422 inches. Some fletching jigs can handle that full range of shaft sizes. Some can’t. Others can, but require additional parts. Know what shaft sizes you will be working with and then make sure the jig you’re looking for can handle those sizes.

This Easton EZ Fletch Tool is designed for larger diameter arrows

CROSSBOW BOLTS

Most crossbow bolts use nocks that are different from traditional nocks with two ears. Most fletching jigs are designed with receivers that hold the two-eared nocks. If you’re working on bolts that don’t have the two-eared nocks, then you need a fletching jig that can handle bolts like yours. With some jigs, you might simply need a special nock adapter that’s sold separately to work with crossbow bolts.

Special crossbow bolt nock receiver for the Grayling fletching jig

OFFSET, HELICAL, STRAIGHT

Here’s where you can get creative with DIY fletching. Offset, helical and straight represent the positioning of fletchings on an arrow shaft. Both promote spin.

Offset fletchings sit straight on the shaft, but the point end of the vane or feather will be to the right of the nock end for right offset, or left of the left nock end for left offset.

Helical fletchings curve around the shaft, and are also set with a right or left offset.

If you set your fletchings without any offset or helical, then they are simply considered to be straight.

This clamp sets fletchings at a right helical position using the Bitzenburger jig

Some jigs let you adjust between straight and left and right offset and helical positions. Some are fixed, and only offer one position. Others might only allow you to switch between a limited number of positions, or require you to buy different parts to achieve different positions.

If you like to experiment with different fletching configurations to figure out what works best for different bow setups, then you’ll want a jig that offers that flexibility. If you like to keep things simple, then a fixed-position jig will probably work for you.

THREE FLETCH, FOUR FLETCH

Evenly spacing fletchings around an arrow shaft is one of the duties of the fletching jig. Every fletching jig will allow you to evenly space three fletchings on a shaft. Some will also allow you to evenly space four fletchings, but that might require the purchase of an additional part. Others will have no capacity for a four-fletching configuration.

If you want to be able to put three or four fletchings on your arrows, make sure the jig you’re looking for can handle both.

How to Choose the Right Recurve/Longbow String

Getting the right size string for your recurve or longbow is critical to getting the best performance out of that bow.

To do so, you’ve got to get a string that’s the correct length for your bow, and has the correct number of strands.

LENGTH

When figuring out the correct length for your bowstring, you’re likely to come across the acronym “AMO.” This stands for Archery Manufacturers and Merchants Organization, and it represents a uniform system of measurement for recurve and longbow bowstrings.

Let’s say you have a 68-inch recurve bow. You might think, “Well, I need a 68-inch string.” What you need is a 68-inch AMO string, which will actually measure 64 to 65.25 inches long depending on the bow and the string material. 

According to AMO standards, the correct bowstring length for a particular bow is three inches shorter than the stated bow length. That is a good rule of thumb, but it’s not guaranteed to be optimal in every case.  The latest modern materials (such as BCY DF 97 or 8125 Dyneema) and string-building methods give us bowstrings that do not stretch nearly as much as Dacron B-50 or Flemish bundle-made bow strings. 

Dacron bow strings can measure up to one inch shorter untaught then they would under 100 pounds of tension, while a new material, such as BCY DF 97 or 8125, may only vary by a quarter-inch. 

Using the correct string length allows you to achieve the correct brace height to ensure quietness and maximum performance for that bow once it’s strung.

Brace height can be easily adjusted by increasing or decreasing the number of twists over a wide range in your bowstring.  For example, on a string for a 68-inch bow, anywhere from 20-60 twists will produce world-class results in order to get your bow’s brace height correct.

Usually, the bow will have its length measurement printed somewhere on it. But what if you have a bow that doesn’t indicate its length anywhere? You can measure it for yourself.

Set the unstrung bow on its side on a flat surface. Now measure a longbow from string groove to string groove on the belly (grip facing you) side of the bow. For recurves, your groove-to-groove measurement should follow the curvature of the top limb, run straight over the riser, and follow the curvature of the bottom limb.

That measurement is the length of your bow, and the string you put on it should have an AMO measurement to match it. Again, a 68-inch bow gets a 68-inch AMO string.

By understanding this standard, you can then match a string that doesn’t have an AMO designation with the proper bow. If a string measures 65 inches long, then you know it should be used on a 68-inch bow.

STRAND COUNT

A bowstring is a collection of individual fiber strands bound together by serving. Generally, you’ll find recurve and longbow bowstrings with anywhere from 10-20 strands. The number of strands needed in a bowstring depends on the draw weight of the bow.

Modern bowstrings for recurves and longbows are generally made from one of two types of material – Dacron(Polyester) or Dyneema/Spectra (HMPE- High Molecular Polyethylene). 

If your bow was made prior to 1990, only use a Dacron bowstring to avoid damage.  Dacron is more forgiving on limb tips and string grooves as it elongates, or gives a bit, on each shot. Dyneema or Fastflight/Spectra bowstrings offer very little creep/stretch and higher arrow speeds on newer bows.

Dyneema materials such as BCY’s DF 97 and 8125 offer even less creep than Fastflight strings made of Spectra material. 

Bowstrings made of Vectran or Vectran/Dyneema blend are rarely used on recurves and longbows due to the harshness created by zero creep or stretch. 

The number of strands required for your bowstring can vary depending on string material and serving thread.  Be careful to check your arrow’s nock fit onto the center serving. It should lightly click onto the string, but not require more than a tap on the bowstring to dislodge.

Here’s the strand guide our recurve and longbow experts at Lancaster Archery follow:

For bows with draw weights from 10-30 pounds, use Dacron strings with 10-12 strands or Dyneema/Fastflight strings with 12-14 strands.

For bows with draw weights from 30-40 pounds, use Dacron strings with 14 strands or Dyneema/Fastflight strings with 16 strands.

For bows with draw weights over 40 pounds, use Dacron strings with 16 strands or Dyneema/Fastflight strings with 18-20 strands.

Finding the “perfect” bow string for your bow can make a huge difference with accuracy, quietness and performance.  The most important factors are brace height and proper nock fit on the serving.

Easton Arrows: Built for Precision, Made in the USA

Since 1922, Easton Archery has been designing, testing, building, selling and shipping arrows.

All from within the United States of America.

“When you can engineer something, build it and then test it all in the same place, that’s when you are able to build the best products possible,” said Gary Cornum Easton’s director of marketing.

There is no disconnect between the engineers and the manufacturing, so, if problems arise, they can be identified quickly and improvements can be made on the spot.

The 300 American workers Easton employs in its various divisions, and at Delta McKenzie, are part of the American machine that keeps Easton and the country focused on success.

“In this day and age, there’s a lot of interest from consumers in buying American made products,” Cornum said. “We’ve been doing that for almost 100 years.”

Take Easton’s revolutionary Acu-Carbon process, for example. It epitomizes what happens when an American company employs American workers to build products in the U.S.

Nearly all of Easton’s carbon arrows are made with the Acu-Carbon process, in which carbon is applied continuously to a single mandril, without any seam. When the carbon shaft reaches a certain length, it is cut to produce a single arrow shaft.

By using the continuous, seamless process on a single mandril – and by doing all of its engineering, testing and building with American workers at American facilities – Easton can produce the most consistent arrows on the market.

“Whether it’s arrow number one or number 10,000, you know it’s going to weigh the same and have the same spine consistency,” Cornum said.

The crisscross weave is Easton’s new signature look for its Acu-Carbon arrows, like these 6.5mm Matrix, so customers can see the continuous weave used to make them.

That consistency is critical for several reasons. Archery demands consistency. The archer has to do everything exactly the same from shot to shot to produce consistent results. If the archer’s arrows vary in spine and weight from one arrow to the next, consistent performance is nearly impossible, regardless of the archer’s actions.

Also, let’s say an archer has one dozen Easton 5mm Axis that he’s been shooting for a year or so. A couple get lost or broken, and now it’s time to buy another dozen. That archer knows the next dozen Easton 5mm Axis he buys will precisely match the ones he’s replacing because of the consistency of the building process. So there’s no issue putting the new dozen arrows into his quiver along with the few he has left from his original dozen.

“If there’s a bowhunter out there shooting Easton Axis arrows, and they’re wondering where they came from, they can know that their arrows were made right here in Salt Lake City,” Cornum said.

(Easton makes aluminum arrows in Salt Lake City too. Check out the video below.)

To shop Lancaster Archery’s full slate of Easton gear, click here.

Customizing your bow grip

“Man, I love this bow, but I just can’t get comfortable with this grip!”

Ever found yourself in this situation?

You’re not alone. And no, you don’t just “have to get used to it.”

If you find a bow that you like, but it’s got a grip that doesn’t suit you, there are lots of potential fixes on the market for both compound and recurve bows.

REMOVE THE GRIP

Perhaps the simplest fix is to remove the grip and shoot off the bare riser. This is going to be more for compound archers than recurve, but it’s a simple move that many target archers do when a grip doesn’t feel right.

Often times, the riser underneath a grip is flat and smooth and has a nice angle that fits how you like to position your wrist. Understand that when you remove a grip, you’re going to extend your draw length a bit.

AFTERMARKET GRIPS

There are many companies that make grips for different bows. Usually, these aftermarket grips are made to correct common complaints archers have about the stock grip on a particular bow. Too wide, too thin, too much angle, not enough angle, soft edge, hard edge. These are all issues that aftermarket grip manufacturers try to alleviate with their grips, and they might have just what you’re looking to put on your bow.

You will find many of these grips offered in low, medium and high varieties. These refer to the wrist position, with a low grip requiring the most bend in your wrist and the high grip requiring the least bend. The medium, is in between the two. Viewed from the side, a low grip will be the most vertical, while the high grip will have the greatest angle away from vertical, and the medium will be in the middle.

If you want a grip that fits your hand specifically, there are manufacturers who will make custom grips. These are popular among Olympic recurve and barebow recurve archers.

TAPE

Sometimes a grip issue can be fixed simply with grip tape. The most common tape is similar to what you’d find wrapped around a tennis racket or the handle of a baseball bat. It’s soft, warm and keeps your hand from sliding. Grip tape is what many archers put on their bows after they remove a grip to shoot off the riser.

Another common tape is traction tape, which has a gritty feel, kind of like sandpaper. This tape usually comes in strips, so you can put a single strip on the face of a grip, where your hand sits. It’s great for keeping your hand from sliding when it’s wet or hot and humid, but without the bulk that can be added by using the wrap-around grip tape mentioned previously.

MOLDABLE PRODUCTS

One way to customize any grip you have is to use moldable putty, rubber or glue. You can add this material to your grip to build it up in specific areas to fit your hand. Usually, the material is pliable when you apply it, then cures into the shape you want after some period.

For a full list of products that can help you get the grip you want, click here.

How to build heavy hunting arrows

Heavy hunting arrows are wildly popular these days.

Whether you want just an overall heavy arrow or you want to add weight specifically to the front of the arrow to boost an arrow’s FOC, there are products that can help achieve your goals.

Let’s start with heavy arrows. Arrow weights vary wildly across manufacturers and individual shafts, but, generally, the typical weight for today’s hunting arrows is between 7 and 9 grains per inch, depending on the spine.

Once you get to 10 grains per inch and over, now you’re talking about some serious heavyweights. Easton’s 5mm FMJ arrow shaft in a 340 spine weighs 11.3 grains per inch, for example.

A 30-inch bare shaft would weigh 339 grains. By the time you add an insert, vanes and a broadhead, you could easily have an arrow weighing more than 500 grains.

Whatever you do, don’t simply increase the spine of the arrow you’re shooting in order to get a heavier arrow. That same Easton 5mm FMJ weighs 10.2 grains per inch in a 400 spine. If a 400-spine arrow is what your setup calls for, don’t choose the 340 simply to get more weight.

Stick to the spine recommendations for your draw weight and arrow length, since that will give you the best performance.

Now let’s take that heavy hunting arrow and add on a heavy broadhead. The 100-grain broadhead is considered standard, so maybe you increase to a 125-grain head, or maybe even 150 or 175. The Northern Broadheads Wide Cuts weighs in at a whopping 175 grains.

Northern Broadheads Wide Cuts 175-grain

But before you install that heavy broadhead into your heavy arrow, let’s swap out the standard aluminum insert that comes with your arrows for a brass one. Gold Tip’s standard, Accu-lite threaded insert for its .246 diameter arrows weighs 11.4 grains. But Gold Tip also makes a brass insert for its .246 arrows that weighs 100 grains. Simply swapping inserts boosts your arrow weight by 88.6 grains.

Gold Tip .246 Brass Insert

Black Eagle offers a stainless steel insert weighing 28 grains for its Spartan arrows to which you can add brass weights that weigh 30 or 75 grains. Those weights are the same diameter as the insert, and they have a threaded post which screws into the back of the insert. And they’re made so you can stack them, one behind the other.

Black Eagle Spartan 30-grain Brass Insert Weight

Other arrow and component manufacturers offer a variety of heavy inserts and insert weights to add weight to the front end of your arrows to boost the FOC. That stands for “front of center,” and it refers to the percentage of arrow weight that’s at the front end of the arrow.

Boosting an arrow’s FOC can help it stabilize in flight and to punch through hide, bone and tissue.

Understand, however, that when you increase the weight up front, you weaken the arrow’s spine. Most manufacturer spine charts make spine recommendations based on 100-grain points. If you use a 175-grain head with a 100-grain insert, you will want to go with a stiffer arrow.

So let’s take that 30-inch, 340-spine Easton FMJ that weighs 339 grains for the bare shaft. We will add Easton’s 75-grain stainless steel insert, and then screw in a 175-grain Northern Wide Cut. Before fletchings, we’ve got an arrow that weighs 589 grains and has an FOC of about 20 percent.

That’s a heavy arrow.

Lancaster Archery Supply has a full line of hunting arrows you can look through to compare weights and find the one that’s as heavy as you want it to be. We’ve also got a full line of arrow components that you can look through to find the inserts and points that will work for your arrow build.