Lancaster Archery Supply is exclusive U.S. distributor for Spider Vanes, other key Olympic archery companies

When Brady Ellison releases his arrows on the field of Sambodromo in Rio this summer, they will be guided by Spider Vanes. Same goes for his teammate, Zach Garrett.

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Ellison, USA’s top male archer and one of the most recognizable archers in the world, helped design these new-to-market vanes, which come in varieties for both recurve and compound archers.

Lancaster Archery Supply is proud to announce that it is the exclusive U.S. distributor for Spider Vanes.

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Every Spider Vane that is shipped to the U.S. from the company’s home base in Slovenia, will come through Lancaster Archery Supply.

Spider Archery is one of several manufacturers whose archery products will be seen in Rio, and which are available in the U.S. exclusively through Lancaster Archery Supply – a world leader in supplying Olympic archery equipment.

As part of its deep commitment to Olympic recurve archery, Lancaster Archery Supply also is the exclusive distributor for TopHat target points, Shibuya, Beiter, Win & Win, Uukha, XSWings, EliVanes  and Fivics – all of which are sure to have a presence at the Summer Games.

Krossen, an arm of Fivics that provides an economical line of products for archers just getting into Olympic recurve, is another brand that is exclusively distributed in the U.S. by Lancaster Archery.

“It’s a privilege for Lancaster Archery to provide the very best target archery equipment to archery dealers and target archers here in the U.S. and around the world, including those who will compete in Rio this summer,” said LAS president and founder Rob Kaufhold. “We are excited to join the world in watching archery at the Olympics as we further our commitment to the sport of archery in the future.”

Now in its 34th year in business, Lancaster Archery Supply serves the archery community through its wholesale and retail websites, 420-page catalog and its Pro Shop in Lancaster, Pa.

Jack Wallace II: 3D archery accessories you can’t leave at home

The 3D archery course can be an unforgiving place. Besides the course and other competitors, you’ve got to contend with wind, rain, heat, cold, etc. You’ve got to shoot through all of it. Lightning is basically the only natural element that will put a tournament on hold.

If you have an equipment issue out on the course, there might not be time to run all the way back to the registration area for help, which could be unavailable anyway. You’re going to have to deal with it.

Essentially, 3D archers need to think like Boy Scouts when they hit the tournament trail. They’ve got to be prepared. And they do that with the many accessories they carry.

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Pro archer Jack Wallace II has been accessorizing on the 3D course for two decades. And when he prepares what he needs to take to a tournament, he thinks about the wise words of that old guy named Murphy: “Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.”

Here are Wallace’s takes on 3D accessories, infused with some of his memories of times when accessorizing played a role on the tournament trail.

LAS: How many years have you been competing as a pro at 3D tournaments?

JW: I have competed professionally since 1995.

LAS: What are some of your 3D highlight titles?

JW: 2 IBO World Titles, 2 IBO National Championship Triple Crowns, 3 IBO Shooter of the Year Awards, 3-time IBO National Team Champion, ASA World Classic Champion, 2003 ASA Shooter of the Year, 4 current IBO World Records

LAS: Besides your bow and arrows, what are some accessories you always carry during competitions?

JW: On the course I carry an extra scope lens, extra loop rope, an extra rest blade, extra sight light batteries, an extra sight light, an extra release, varied peep sight apertures for different conditions, a bow pod stand and my binoculars.

In the spring time shooting outside or in very dusty conditions, a scope cover and a lens pen or lens cleaner can help keep a crystal clear image for your scope and not a dirty, dust ball.

I have seen 3D shooters who run the LP Pro Light pack need batteries on the course, and not have any extras when their light starts to run out of power.

When I travel, I will have a small compact portable bow press, fletching jig and accessories, extra string and cables, extra stabilizers and weights, a portable target, a bow square, sight level, extra sight tapes, pliers and a needle nose.

A lighter has helped save us all when a serving has come loose or a loop or peep tie needed re-burned.

Basically anything I need to completely fix or rebuild a bow and arrows at a tournament in case it needs to be worked on. I believe in Murphy’s Law, so I bring as much as I can haul!

(Here’s a link to Wallace’s Pro Picks equipment list that he maintains with Lancaster Archery Supply.)

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LAS: What do you use to hold your arrows and equipment?

JW: I don’t carry a quiver. Everything is in a shooting stool that I carry that holds arrow tubes and an umbrella, has a seat and cooler and can hold all my extra equipment and tools.

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LAS: What tools do you always have in your stool?

JW: I carry Allen wrenches, steel pan scrubbers to clean target residue from carbon arrows, glue and a Leatherman for the most part.

There was a time when my bubble popped out of my scope housing. I could’ve really used super glue to glue it back in but I had none with me. I had to shoot the rest of that IBO World Championship with no bubble in the scope. Fortunately, I got lucky enough to win anyway.

Most archers run a quick detach system for their stabilizers. It is usually attached with a very large-headed bolt that is not on many Allen key sets. I have had mine come loose and needed one of those extra-large wrenches. I had one with me that time, but I have seen others not have one when they needed it.

LAS: If you had to give up all but one accessory on a 3D shoot, which one would you keep and why?

JW: I would keep a set of Allen wrenches from 3/16-inch down to .050-inch. They would fit most any accessory on my bow or release. If I ever need a tool it’s usually an Allen wrench.

LAS: What are some things you carry to deal with rain?

JW: I carry a plastic cover that is contoured to fit my bow that keeps it nearly completely covered in between shots. I also carry an umbrella, light rain jacket and a scope cover.

Besides protection from rain, umbrellas also are frequently used on the 3D course as sun shields. The rules allow one archer to hold up some device for an archer on the shooting line to block a harsh glare.

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LAS: What are some things you carry to deal with heat?

JW: Lots of water and a Frogg Togg Towel.

LAS: What do you carry to deal with cold weather?

JW: I wear layers. Usually a long sleeve loose fit shirt, my shooter shirt and a vest to keep my range of motion free. I wear a knit hat over my ball cap and keep hand warmers close by.

LAS: Do you carry anything for good luck?

JW: My girlfriend – Mathews Pro Shooter Sharon Carpenter. She’ll be at every tournament with me!

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Dan McCarthy’s guide to killer 3D archery arrows

For more than a decade, pro archer Dan McCarthy has been working his way onto podiums at 3D archery tournaments.

He knows what it takes to succeed at the game’s highest level.

Not surprisingly, McCarthy is meticulous about setting up all his equipment. But when it comes to his arrows, he is especially particular. And he builds his arrows with a single purpose.

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“Accuracy is the most important factor, PERIOD, for any tournament shooting,” McCarthy said.

Let’s find out what McCarthy has to say about building tack-driving, 3D arrows.

LAS: What is your bow and arrow setup for the 2016 3D season?

DM: I have two bows that I’ll be using this 3D season – a Mathews Halon-X and a Mathews Chill-X. Both bows will be equipped with Axcel Achieve sights with Feather Vision 4x lenses; AAE Pro Blade Rests, AAE Hot Rodz stabilizers, my signature-series PS23 arrows by Black Eagle Arrows, High Demand Archery Grips, and I’ll be shooting a T.R.U. Ball Absolute 360 release with both bows.

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LAS: What is your draw length and weight, and what is your arrow speed.

DM: My draw is 27.25 inches. I usually pull around 73 pounds. My arrows weigh approximately 370 grains, and my bows are shooting 293 feet per second.

LAS: What is it you look for in a 3D arrow?

DM: Accuracy is the most important factor, PERIOD, for any tournament shooting. Other less important, but still influential factors, include the arrow’s weight. I need to get that arrow up to speeds around 290 fps. So the arrow must be light enough to achieve those speeds. It must also be heavy enough to not exceed the 298 fps limit enforced by the tournament organization. Also important is arrow diameter. I choose the largest diameter arrow that I can shoot accurately without going so large that wind and minor form and shot execution flaws hinder my accuracy and score.

LAS: Describe your whole 3D arrow for this season.

DM: My Signature Series PS23 arrow by Black Eagle is a 23/64-inch outside diameter shaft, and I shoot a .350 spine. The shafts weigh approximately 7.9 grains per inch. My arrows are 26 inches long, they’re fletched with Flex Fletch Silent Knight Vanes, and fitted with a standard .245-inch bushing and nock, and a 120-grain point.

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LAS: What’s a common mistake you see archers make in choosing a 3D arrow?

DM: Thinking that they need to use as large an arrow as possible to “cut lines.” Large diameter arrows, by simple theory, should cut more lines. However, an archer that has the tiniest form flaw or shot execution flaw, will generally lose more in minute of angle accuracy (MOA) than what they will gain from using the larger arrow.

The smaller an arrow is, the more accurate that arrow will be. Small arrows are affected less by outside factors like wind, rain, or the archer’s form and execution flaws. The best solution is choosing an arrow in the middle that’s not huge and not tiny.

LAS: When you are on a course, do you shoot one arrow over and over? Or do you rotate arrows?

DM: I always shoot one particular arrow, over and over, until it gets damaged. I number my arrows, and I start with the arrow that is numbered “1.” I only will switch to the arrow numbered “2” when No. 1 becomes damaged or compromised.

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LAS: When you get to a shoot-down, how many arrows will you pick to compete with? Do you mark them in any special way to shoot in any special order? If so, why?

DM: I choose 5 arrows for my shoot-down because there’s 5 targets to shoot in the shoot down. I don’t mark them special for the shoot down; they’re already marked and numbered as I mentioned above. I don’t shoot them in a special order. Every arrow, that I bring with me to a tournament, is an arrow I’ve already tested and I’ve made sure, at home before the tournament, that it will hit behind my bow’s sight pin–if I do my job correctly.

LAS: Do you put fletchings on your arrows straight, simple offset or helical?

Fletchings can be glued to an arrow shaft in several configurations. They can be placed to run straight up and down the shaft; they can have the point end offset from the nock end to encourage the arrow to spin; or they can be curled around the fletch in a helical fashion, which is the most conducive for causing arrow spin. The flight of a spinning arrow is more stable than one that doesn’t spin.

DM: I fletch using a simple offset. I use a straight clamp and about a 1-degree offset. My reason for choosing this is to minimize the likelihood of vane contact on my rest. Generally, the more offset you use, or the stronger the helical you use, the more common it is to get fletching contact on your rest. In short, vane contact will hurt your accuracy more than strong helical fletching will help it.

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LAS: Why do you use the fletchings you use?

DM: I’ve used, tested and compared all different kinds and brands of fletchings. I sound like a broken record, but the reason I use a certain vane on a certain arrow is because of ACCURACY! The Flex Fletch Silent Knight vane works incredibly well on my PS23 arrow.  The AAE Pro Max vane is also an accurate vane choice for the PS23 arrow.

LAS: Why do you use the nock system you use?

DM: I always use the heaviest-duty nock system I can – that the diameter arrow I’m using will allow. The plastic nock is the weakest link of the fully-built arrow. Choosing the strongest, most heavy-duty nock helps with accuracy. If your nocks get hit by other competitors’ arrows, the stronger nocks won’t bend as easily as smaller/thinner/weaker nocks. Arrow accuracy suffers if the nock gets hit and bends.

LAS: Why do you use the points you use?

DM: Accuracy. I shoot all different weight points. The 120-grain points shoot the best for me, and I’ll choose accuracy over speed, shape, or any other point characteristic – ALWAYS!

Follow Dan McCarthy on Facebook for more archery advice and answers.

And here’s a look at how you can custom order arrows from LAS by calling us at 800-829-7408.

How to tie a peep sight into a bow string

Lancaster Archery Supply TechXpert P.J. Reilly demonstrates how to tie a peep sight into the string of a compound bow in this video.

There’s great value in putting a peep sight into your compound bow string. It’s key to helping consistently align your eye with your sight at full draw.

Tying the peep into the bow string ensures that the peep won’t slide once you set it in the right place. Reilly demonstrates two ways to tie in a peep in this video, using two different types of peeps.

 

David Houser: Setting up a 3D bow

Hoyt pro archer David Houser is one of those few compound-bow archers who successfully competes in both the 3D and indoor spot-target games.

Just last year, Houser finished second by a single bonus ring at the 2015 ASA Classic in the Known-50 division just a few months after shooting a perfect, 600 round, and qualifying for the final shoot-off at the 2015 NFAA Indoor Nationals Championships.

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Living in both worlds, Houser has to maintain bow setups for each. And he’ll be the first to tell you there are differences between an indoor spot bow and a 3D bow.

Let’s listen to Houser’s advice on setting up a compound bow for 3D archery.

LAS: What is your 3D setup for 2016?

DH: My current set-up for 3D is as follows:

1. Hoyt Podium X 37 compound bow with No. 2 spiral pro cams; 27.75-inch draw length; 59.5-pounds draw weight; 280 feet per second arrow speed.

2. Axcel Achieve Carbon sight.

3. Shrewd Nomad scope with 3-power lens.

4. Hamskea Hybrid Target Pro arrow rest with a .010 wide launcher blade.

5. Front stabilizer bar is a 30-inch Bee Stinger Premiere Plus with 6 oz. of weight, mounted to point downward 10 degrees;

6. Rear stabilizer bar is a 15-inch Bee Stinger Premiere Plus with 16 oz. of weight.  This bar is mounted on the front mounting hole of my riser behind my front stabilizer with a Bee Stinger side arm bracket.  The bar is sitting nearly straight back with a slight downward slope, and it is relatively tight to my riser.

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7TruBall 3-finger Honey Badger Claw release.

8. Gold Tip X-cutter arrows cut to 25.5 inches, with a 100-grain point, and three, 2-inch, high-profile Vanetec vanes.

(For indoor archery, competitors shoot all of their arrows at one distance, in a controlled environment. In 3D archery, competitors shoot outdoors in all kinds of weather, firing one arrow each at targets placed at a variety of ranges. In some events, those yardages are listed for the archers, in others, it’s up to the archers to guess the distances and shoot accordingly.)

LAS: How is your 3D bow setup different from your indoor setup?

DH: One of the biggest differences is the sight for my indoor setup features a large black sticker on the lens that covers nearly the entire yellow (9-10-X rings).  This allows me just to focus on covering most of the yellow and centering my dot in the middle. Also, my sight picture never changes if my target begins to get shot out, or a hole begins to form. I am covering so much of the yellow, it looks the same all the time.

For my 3D bow I want just the opposite.  I shoot a small, .010 pin with a blue fiber and a light for 3D.  I want to see as much as I can on a 3D target, and be able to aim at small holes in targets, or at other arrows for that matter. So the smaller fiber allows me to do that.

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LAS: Is the draw weight for 3D higher than for indoor?

DH: The draw weight on my 3D bow is usually about 3-4 lbs. heavier than on my indoor bow.  The higher poundage gives me more arrow speed.

(A faster arrow has a flatter trajectory. That reduces how much an arrow drops as it flies down range, which, in turn, gives an archer more of a cushion when shooting at different yardages.

Let’s say an archer shoots at a target that is 32 yards away. A faster arrow can help mask flaws in judging yardage, so the arrow will hit the intended spot, even if the archer guesses that it is 30 yards out.

In 3D archery, there are no highly-visible bull’s-eyes like you’ll find on spot targets. There are scoring rings, but they are the same color as the whole target, which means archers often have to pick a spot on the target to aim at. That can cause aiming pins to slide around more than if there were an easily recognizable bull’s-eye to lock onto.)

I like to have my 3D setup shooting about 280-285 fps., and the higher poundage allows me to obtain the speed I desire with a large diameter, heavy arrow.

The additional poundage also gives me a bit more holding weight at full draw. I like to hold 19-20 lbs. at full draw when shooting outside. If it ever gets windy, the higher holding weight helps me to fight against the wind and aim steadier than if I was holding less weight at full draw.

Also, in 3D archery, you’re only shooting one arrow at a time, where indoors you’re shooting 3-5 arrows at a time. The higher poundage is easier to handle when I’m shooting only one arrow at a time.

LAS: Do you shoot a different bow for indoor and 3D?

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DH: Yes.  Having a busy schedule of tournaments throughout the year, I like to have multiple bows set up.  That way I don’t have to constantly swap arrows and sights on one bow.  This saves me a lot of time by having one setup for each form of archery, and I can simply pick that bow up and it is ready for the tournament I am going to. All I have to focus on is practicing and not changing things around.

(A peep sight is a circular aiming device that is placed in the middle of the bow string. An archer looks through the peep, and then through the bow sight to take aim. Since the peep is a permanent part of the bowstring, it ensures that the archer looks through the bow sight the same way on every shot.

Generally, the smaller the peep, the more precisely an archer can aim. However, less light can get through a smaller peep as compared to a larger one, and so, in variable light, it might be tough for an archer to see the target through a smaller peep.)

LAS: What size peep do you shoot for 3D and is it different from your indoor peep?

DH: I shoot a larger peep aperture for 3D because I shoot a larger scope.  I shoot a Shrewd Nomad with a 3/32-inch aperture outside, whereas indoors I shoot a Shrewd Mini-Mag with a 1/16-inch aperture.  This mainly is because when I am outside, lighting is not always consistent and when shooting in the early mornings the target lanes can be dark.  So the larger scope and aperture allows more light to get in and I can see better when trying to aim at a 3D animal.

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On top is a 3/32-inch peep; bottom is 1/16-inch.

(Many 3D archers use magnified lenses in conjunction with their sight pins, or they’ll put a small, dot sticker or piece of optical fiber in the center of the lens for aiming. The magnifying lenses allow the archers to see targets better, and to find the scoring rings, which often blend in with the targets.)

LAS: What power scope do you use for 3D?

DH: For 3D I am using a 3x lens and occasionally I will shoot a 4x lens but never any higher power than that.  I like the lower powers because with them I do not see as much movement in my sight picture as I would with a higher power lens, also with the lower powers I do not need to shoot a clarifier. I prefer not to use a clarifier because there are factors that can affect how well you can see though it, such as if it becomes fogged up or it begins to rain.  With just a smaller aperture, I can see very clearly with the lower powers.

(The purpose of the stabilizer setup in 3D archery is to reduce the bow’s ability to torque side to side, and to allow to archer to “quiet” the sight as it comes on target. That is, the archer wants the aiming device to lock on an aiming point, and sit there as steady as possible through the shot process.

Stabilizers add weight out in front of and behind the bow to help achieve this end. Also, the angle of the stabilizer rods can be changed to help an archer find the best way to balance the bow for his or her shooting style.)

LAS: Do you do anything unique with your stabilizer weights for 3D, as compared to indoors? Do you change the angle of your side rod or alter the amount of weight front or back? If so, why?

DH: I do not do anything unique with my stabilizers for 3D.  On my Podium X’s I have found what works best for me as far as stabilizer position, lengths, and weight combinations. This combination is what I have on my bows regardless of the style of archery because it is what I have found to make me the most confident when aiming.

LAS: Do you use anything on your bow to reduce sun glare? If so, what?

DH: Yes, on my Shrewd Nomad scope housing you will find a large sunshade on the front and back side of my housing.  This prevents unwanted light from entering my scope and causing a glare.

LAS: How do you compensate for moving from dark shadows to bright sunlight during a single shoot?

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DH: I compensate for this by practicing in these conditions before the shoot to make sure that I will hit in the same spot regardless of dark shadows or bright light during a shoot.  I also always make sure to have my sunshades on my scope for this reason.

If during a tournament I find that the bright sunlight is affecting me while trying to aim, I will ask one of my fellow archers to hold an umbrella to help block to sun.

Wrist and finger slings: Do I need one?

Take a close look at an Olympic recurve archer, and you’ll likely notice a piece of cord tethering the forefinger to the thumb, around the back of the bow at the grip.

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You might see the same thing on the hand of a compound archer, although you’re more likely to spot a cord attached to the bow that encircles the archer’s wrist.

The first is a finger sling; the second is a wrist sling. The purpose of both is to keep the bow from hitting the ground after a shot.

Do you need a sling? Some folks will say, “Yes,” others will say, “No.” Let’s talk about what they do, and then you can decide what’s right for you.

Recurve bows deliver more forward motion and hand shock than compounds, with a noticeable jump forward at the release of the bowstring. Traditional archers tend to wrap their fingers around their bows, so you don’t see many of them using finger or wrist slings, although they could benefit from them.

Olympic recurve archers, however, are going to have their bow hand positioned with knuckles at a 45-degree angle, and with an open grip and relaxed fingers that don’t hold the riser. A finger sling will catch the bow when it leaps forward at the shot, which eliminates the need for the archer to try to catch it with his or her hand. This allows the archer to relax the bow hand, eliminating bow torque and inconsistencies in the shot.

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Finger slings shouldn’t pin the bow tight against your hand. That’s just another form of torque. Finger slings should allow the bow to move forward toward the target. Some archers like a sling that allows the bow to move forward a little, while others wear slings that allow the bow to totally leave their hand. It’s all a matter of personal preference.

As we already mentioned, compound bows built in recent years don’t jump like recurves. So there are some compound archers who don’t use any kind of sling. Even with a relaxed, open grip, they’re not worried about dropping the bow.

Some will use a finger sling for the same reason as recurve archers. Many more are likely to have wrist slings.

A wrist sling should be loose around the archer’s wrist. You don’t want it tight, so it pulls your wrist in any direction. It’s simply there for safety. If the bow gets out of your hand, it won’t fall to the ground.

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Sling that ties wrist and thumb together around the grip

If bowhunters have a sling it’s almost always going to be an open, bow-mounted wrist sling. They can get a hand underneath it quickly when they pick up the bow to shoot, rather than have to fumble with a finger sling.

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Open wrist sling

Also, if you’re hunting with broadhead-tipped arrows and you trip, you might want to be able to put some distance between you and your bow as you fall. With an open wrist sling, you can easily toss the bow to the side. That move might be impossible to pull off with a finger sling or a more confining style of wrist sling.

And if you hunt from a tree stand, you really ought to think about a wrist sling, because you’re always going to be pointing your bow hand down when you shoot. Besides the potential for the bow to jump out of your hand, you’ve also got gravity threatening to carry it past your grip. And a fall from 20 feet would hurt your bow way more than a fall from 5 or 6 feet, so the insurance of a wrist sling really makes sense up in a tree.

5 archery resolutions for the new year and the products that can help you succeed

It’s time to put 2015 in the record book and focus on 2016.

Do you have any archery resolutions for the New Year?

Here are five we thought of, and the products that can help make you achieve the goals.

Resolution: “I will perfect my time management on the shooting line.”

In most archery tournaments, the time you have to release an end of arrows – usually three, five or six arrows – is limited. It’s up to you to develop a pace that allows you to take the required number of shots, while maintaining your form and composure for each.

Sometimes, things go wrong. Maybe you just can’t get comfortable at full draw and you have to let down your bowstring. At this point, time management could become critical.

The KSL Gold Game Trainer is an electronic device that allows you to practice under timed conditions. It uses the lights, beeps and buzzers featured in many tournaments to track your time on the line.

KSL Gold Game

Resolution: “I will perfect my hand position on my bow.”

Improper hand position on the bow is one of the leading causes of errant shots. A bow grip looks like something you should grab like a pistol. But if you do that, you’re sure to encounter problems with torquing the bow.

Proper hand position calls for a loose grip; the bow sits more on the meaty part of your thumb; and your knuckles slant away from the shelf at roughly a 45-degree angle.

Position your hand properly on the bow grip for every shot, and you will greatly increase your ability to achieve consistent accuracy.

The Neet True Shot Coach Adjustable Training Aid forces your hand into the proper position on the bow grip. Practicing with it will help you develop a feel for that correct positioning.

True Shot Coach

Resolution: “I will learn to shoot a back tension release.”

It’s no coincidence that many of the world’s top compound bow archers use back tension releases. They are generally considered to deliver the most consistent, surprise releases.

If you don’t know for sure when the release is going to go off, then you can’t flinch in anticipation. All you can do is continue with your shot process until the release is activated.

Carter Enterprises has produced the Evolution Tension Release Instructional DVD with John Dudley to help you learn proper shot execution with a back tension release. The DVD focuses on the Carter Evolution release, which you can certainly use, but many of the principles apply to other back tension releases, as well.

Carter DVD

Resolution: “I will work to perfect my arrow release.”

The release is arguably the most critical part of the shot process. Consistently doing it the right way is key to hitting that bull’s-eye every time.

The more you practice your release, the more it will become automatic. But maybe you can’t get to a range to shoot arrows as often as you should.

For recurve archers, the Astra Archery Shot trainer allows you to practice drawing and releasing, using your own bow, but you don’t have to actually release any arrows. You can practice anywhere, at any time.

Astra Shot Trainer

For compound archers who use a mechanical release, the Saunders Firing-Line is a device that allows you to practice your release without using your bow or any arrows. Again, you can practice anywhere, at any time.

Saunders Firing Line

Resolution: “I will learn to fletch my own arrows.”

Shoot your bow and arrows more than a few times, and you’re going to have arrows lose fletchings. The more you shoot, the more this is going to happen.

Constantly taking time to deliver fletch-less arrows to the local pro shop or a buddy for repairs is a real drag.

Learn to do your own fletching, and you can fix arrows in minutes in your own house. It also allows you to play with different fletchings to see if one type might work better than another, and to customize your arrows with any color or style of fletchings that you choose.

The Bitzenburger Fletching Jig is favored by archers all over the world, because it’s sturdy and easy to use. It comes with complete instructions to get you going.

Bitzenburger

How to paper tune your bow

John Dudley talks about paper tuning a bow in this 12th episode of the video series, Nocked and Ready to Rock, which tracks the full set-up of a compound bow for hunting.

Dudley discusses the importance of shooting an arrow through a piece of paper to check the flight of your arrow as it leaves your bow. If the arrow isn’t flying straight, accuracy problems are likely to follow.

Then he discusses how to read the holes in the paper to determine what issues you might be having, and he suggests several ways of fixing the problems.

Ultimately, the goal is to produce a “bullet hole” in the paper, which shows a circle perfectly framed by slices from your fletchings.

Top Archery Products of 2015

The year 2015 is rapidly coming to a close.

It was a big year in the archery world.

Reo Wilde in May set a new world record in a Matchplay 15-arrow competition, shooting a 150 with 12 X’s, breaking the old record by 2 X’s.

Levi Morgan in August became the first archer ever to achieve the IBO grand slam, by winning all three legs of the IBO Triple Crown, plus the IBO World Championship.

Also in August, Mackenzie Brown, Khatuna Lorig and LaNola Pritchard won the USA’s first women’s team gold medal ever on the World Cup circuit, while competing in a tournament in Poland.

Shooting at the Indoor Archery World Cup in Bangkok, Thailand, in December, Brady Ellison tied the 14-year-old men’s recurve record of 597 in a 600 round.

Coming up in 2016, you can count on archery getting a big boost at the summer Olympic games in Rio de Janeiro.

But sticking with 2015, we thought it might be interesting to look at the top-selling products for the year in 10 different categories.

Listed here are the top-selling products on Lancaster Archery Supply’s website. Obviously, some products are going to sell better than others through the Internet. Also, special deals, product availability, price points, etc., all affect product movement in the retail world.

But lists such as this one are always open to debate. That’s part of the fun of compiling them.

So here’s our list of top-selling products of 2015.

Top Bow – Samick Sage.

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Top Release – T.R.U. Ball HBX Signature Series Release

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Top Arrow – Easton XX75 Genesis Arrow

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Top Target – Maple Leaf 40cm NFAA 5 Spot Target was the best-seller among the paper targets. Rinehart Apple Target led the way for 3-D, block and bag targets.

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Top Stabilizer – W&W Sebastian Flute Axiom Plus Stabilizer

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Top Sight – W&W Sebastian Flute Axiom Recurve Sight

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Top Rest in the $100-$150 range – AAE Freakshow

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Top Quiver – Easton QF50 Field Quiver

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Top Bow Case – X-Spot Strung Recurve Case

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Top Finger Tab – AAE Elite Finger Tab with Super Leather Face

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How to install a peep sight

How to install a peep sight is the task John Dudley tackles in this 10th part of the video series, Nocked and Ready to Rock.

Dudley talks about the importance of getting the peep sight in the right position for an individual archer. It’s critical for the archer to settle in to his or her comfortable anchor point and be able to see through the peep. You shouldn’t have to change your anchor just to see your sight.

Once the peep is placed in the correct spot, Dudley then walks through the process of securing it. That process includes twisting the string to get the peep to always be open to the archer’s eye at full draw.